Christmas in Berlin: what to do, see and eat
Despite almost half the German population identifying as non-religious, including 60% of Berliners, it’s almost impossible to avoid the festivities of Christmas in the city – and why would you want to? The ice skating, twinkling lights and scrumptious market sweets all transform Berlin into a magical winter wonderland each winter (and sometimes Autumn, too), making it the most enchanting time to visit Germany’s capital.
The best way to see it all is on foot, so make sure to check out my Christmas Walking Tour and allow me to give you a private tour of Berlin during the festive season, or ‘Weihnachten’. Along the walk, we’ll be visiting historical sites and Christmas markets, and I’ll share plenty of local tips on the best things to do in Berlin during Christmas and winter more broadly.
Best Christmas Markets in Berlin
According to the Church, Christmas markets in Germany aren’t technically supposed to open until after ‘Totensonntag’ (the last Sunday before Advent starts in December), but many have found a loophole by calling themselves ‘winter markets’ prior to the Advent period, allowing Berlin to start getting into the Christmas spirit from November.
Christmas/December markets have been a tradition in German-speaking countries from as early as the 1200s, with evidence of markets in Vienna, Munich and Dresden during the Middle Ages, and Berlin’s earliest known markets dating back to the 1400s.
Historically, these markets mainly sold household necessities, such as firewood and produce from local farms to help people get through the winters, but they also featured hand-carved wooden nutcrackers and home-baked stollen.
Nowadays, you’re more likely to find hundreds of baubles and decorations, mulled wine or ‘glühwein’, and traditional baked treats, such as lebkuchen (see later in this article), along with the odd carnival ride, ice skating rink and bratwurst stand.
The markets are all open on different days and at different times, but I’ll be sure to include at least 3 on my walking tours (and admission into the markets is included in the price of your ticket on my Christmas Tour). Three of my personal favourites are the Gendarmenmarkt, Charlottenburg Palace, and Kulturbrauerei markets.
Gendarmenmarkt Christmas Market (Bebelplatz)
One of the largest Christmas markets in Berlin, this one is a must-visit. There’s a 2-euro admission fee, but once you’re inside, you’ll be transported to Christmas heaven. The market has everything from traditional woodcarving to baked goods, and there’s even a large tent where you can watch international craftspeople at perform their craft.
Many artists also exhibit their work at the market, and there’s a covered, heated restaurant area where you can cosy up with a hot chocolate or glühwein. Due to construction works in Gendarmenmarkt, the market has been temporarily relocated to Bebelplatz for 2022–2024.
Charlottenburg Palace Christmas Market
If you’re after a stunning location, then I’d recommend checking out the Christmas Market at Charlottenburg Palace. Set in front of the palace, this Christmas market allows you to walk in the footsteps of royalty. There’s usually a brass band trumpeting in between the wooden hut stalls, as well as a merry-go-round and various other rides for kids.
Lucia Christmas Market at Kulturbrauerei
Nestled between the buildings of a former 19th-century brewery, the Lucia Christmas Market is located in central Berlin and has free entry. Inspired by Nordic traditions and named after Lucia, the bringer of light in the dark winters, this market is definitely on the cosy end of the spectrum.
Hand-made jewellery, candles and sweets line the market stalls, and carol singers make a special appearance on certain days leading up to Christmas – make sure you check the programme for these!
Things to do in Berlin at Christmas
Sub-zero temperatures and snow might make you want to curl up with a book and stay inside, but winter in Berlin is actually a beautiful time to explore the city’s sites, parks and gardens, and make the most of some winter activities.
Visit the Christmas Tree at Pariser Platz (Brandenburg Gate)
Since 1990, an enormous Christmas tree, or ‘Tannenbaum’, has been put up in Pariser Platz each year in front of the Brandenburg Gate. For 25 years, the tree was donated by the Norwegian municipality of Frogn, but since 2015, the tree has been sourced from Thuringia in central Germany and funded by local donations. The tree has come to symbolise unity and peace since the fall of the Berlin Wall, while also making for a great photo opportunity and entrance into the Tiergarten.
Admire the lights at the Tierpark Berlin
Not to be mistaken with Tiergarten, the Tierpark Berlin (Berlin Zoo) puts on a gorgeous display of Christmas lights each year. Open annually since 2019, ‘Christmas at the Zoo’ has quickly become a favourite Christmas activity for locals. The 2km loop takes you around the zoo, adorned with twinkling lights, with a specially composed soundscape playing throughout your visit. Make sure you book in advance!
Berlin Botanical Gardens ‘Christmas Garden’
Another spot to check out an incredible display of Christmas lights is the Christmas Garden at the Berlin Botanic Gardens, which is open from mid-November to mid-January. There are special prices for family days and plenty of places where you can stock up on food and drinks along the 2km loop. Dating back to 1897, the 43-hectare Berlin Botanic Gardens is one of the largest, most botanically diverse botanic gardens in the world.
The Large Tropical House is the centrepiece; built in 1907, the 1,700m2 glasshouse is one of the largest in the world and demonstrates 19th-century glass and steel architecture. If you’re particularly interested in architecture, I also run a Berlin architecture tour, which draws on my background as an architect and urban designer.
Snow sports at Teufelsberg and Grunewald
It’s worth noting that there have only been 24 white Christmases in the last 100 years in Berlin, but when snow does finally fall over the winter season, locals can be found sledding at Teufelsberg in the Grunewald – a forest on the western side of Berlin.
You might be surprised to know that Teufelsberg is an artificial hill made from rubble after the Second World War. These so called ‘rubble mountains’ exist in most major German cities, and there are 15 in Berlin alone! The slope at Teufelsberg is one of the steepest in the city and is the perfect place to try your hand at skiing, snowboarding or tobogganing. There’s also a cross-country ski trail nearby, which takes you into the heart of the Grunewald.
What to eat and drink in Berlin at Christmas time
Glühwein
Glühwein, or mulled wine, is a traditional alcoholic drink served around Christmas time in various European countries. Usually made from red wine with cinnamon, cloves, star anise and orange, this spiced wine is served warm and is available from Christmas markets as well as many restaurants and bars. There are also non-alcoholic versions available, plus regional varieties using cherry or blueberry wine.
Glühwein dates back centuries in Germany and is thought to have originated when the Romans invaded northern Europe around the 1st century BC, bringing wine and viticulture to Germany and France. Many modern-day market vendors sell festive mugs with the glühwein, so you can get a warm drink and a souvenir in one!
Lebkuchen and pfeffenüsse
If you’ve got a sweet tooth, then you’ll want to try lebkuchen and pfeffenüsse. Both are traditional biscuits enjoyed around Christmas time in Germany. Pronounced “leyb-koo-kuh-n”, these particular biscuits are a gingerbread variant, with their texture being somewhere between a cookie and a cake. They’re traditionally sweetened with honey and contain classic Christmassy spices like cinnamon, ginger, cloves and nutmeg. You’ll usually find them iced with decorative patterns or with a chocolate or sugar glaze, they look like little gingerbread pillows. Similar in flavour, pfeffernüsse are dense and chewy, they typically have a white sugar glaze and can be as big as a hand.
Weihnachtsgans: roast goose
Many German restaurants offer a special Christmas menu during December, and a mainstay on these menus is roast goose. Eating roast goose is a distinctly German tradition, with the country consuming approximately 23 tonnes of it between October and December (data from 2015). There are many fabled explanations for where this tradition started; some say it originated with Queen Elizabeth I in England, while some think it started in medieval times and is linked to St Martin, who apparently hid amongst geese to avoid becoming a bishop.
Whichever story you believe, the Germans have stuck with the tradition, and you’ll find it on dining tables across the country come Christmas, from fine dining restaurants to people’s homes.
For a traditional German Christmas feast in Berlin, I’d recommend checking out Jäeger & Lustig. Their seasonal menu includes a full range of roast goose options for different sized groups, and they also have delicious vegan and vegetarian alternatives.
To find out more about Christmas in Berlin, join me for a private walking tour this December. Get in touch if you’d like to know what to do in Berlin during the holiday season, or if you’d like to organise your own custom private tour.
Wishing you a Frohe Weihnachten (Merry Christmas) from Berlin!
